The following story is one of two worst transportation days I’ve ever had in my whole dang life. The other was on my bus from Cambodia to Thailand, story on that coming soon.
It all started in the town of Ayutthaya, Thailand. It’s a city a lot of people skip since it’s in the middle of Thailand. Most people take the overnight train/ fly from Bangkok to Chiang Mai; but I had the time so I broke up the trip and stopped in cities along the way. After spending the day in Ayutthaya exploring temples with two new British friends, I decided to spend two more. The second night in my hostel started off alright with a refreshing cold shower and some journaling.
As I tried to fall asleep I couldn’t help but notice the incessant buzzing of mosquitoes by my ear. 1 turned into 2 turned into what sounded like 75. I felt surrounded. I was so itchy from previous bites that I couldn’t stop scratching. It was like playing a game of scratch whack-a-mole. Every time I scratched the itch on my leg, my arm would start up. Then once my arm itch was satisfied, my foot itched! I just couldn’t sleep and I wasn’t going to be able to. I was covered in bug spray and I felt so gross and buggy and sweaty that I just wanted to get out of there and go to Chiang Mai.
So at 3:34am I impulsively booked the earliest train to Chiang Mai at 6:15am. I booked the expensive 4 hour high speed train because I truly just didn’t give a f*ck in that moment. I quietly packed my stuff and headed to the check-out desk. Nobody was there that early so I left my key on the desk and headed out. No key deposit for me 🙁
I mapped the train station on my phone and it seemed walk-able. So off I went to where my map said there was a footbridge over the river. But I see no such bridge; just a massive body of water. I look around and see a sign with a picture of a boat and a price on it. I didn’t know when the starting time was so I just sat down and waited. Thankfully in 20 minutes a dinky little boat arrived and I was the only one to get on. I paid 5 cents and he took me to the other side of the river where the train station was. This was the only bit of luck I had that day…
I was 2 hours early for my train so I sat at a closed coffee shops outdoor seating and waited. It was finally my boarding time so I went to the tracks and looked for my train. There were only 2 tracks, one going north and the other south. A train arrived and I didn’t know which way it was going so I asked the only other non-locals there and they said they were also heading to Chiang Mai. Phew. So when I saw the couple get on the train, I followed suit and got settled in. The train started moving and as I’m looking out the window I see the couple still on the platform with a look of deep regret on their faces. They were shouting trying to tell me…wrong train!!
They had clearly messed up and boarded the incorrect train but realized it in time to hop off; I wasn’t as fortunate. As I asked the locals around me, “Chiang Mai??” they all started to laugh and point the other direction. Well, crap. One man spoke a little English and I asked him where I could get off to get back on going the other way. He told me not for another 2 hours. So there I sat, powerless, going 2 hours in the opposite direction of my destination. When I finally arrived at the next train station it was truly in the middle of no man’s land. It was desolate; just one man working the desk and he spoke negative English.
I tried to explain that I got on going the wrong way and I already purchased a ticket. I wanted to know if it could be transferred to another time? Yeah that’s a pretty hard thing to say with just hand motions and sounds. My cell data was working at 10% capacity so Google translate was trying her best, but the message just wasn’t coming across. I finally conceded and bought a new ticket to Chiang Mai. But just my luck there were no other high speed trains going that day. Ugh, fine ok I’ll take the slow one. But I’ll take a first class ticket as I’m now annoyed and just want to arrive. No dice. Only 3rd class available. This means open seating, no air conditioning, no wifi, and wooden benches. Oh and it was going to take 8 hours. Ohhh oh and it doesn’t leave for another 4 hours. PERFECT.
So here I sat in this 5 chair outdoor train station hut sweating out my frustration. I spent those hours pacing around the station and watching downloaded Netflix shows on my phone (this was before I was wise enough to get an unlimited sim card). After hours upon hours of boredom my train finally arrives. Huzzah. I choose a seat by the window and asked 4 different people around me if it’s going to Chiang Mai. I got an unanimous yes. Success! The train starts to move and I breathe a sigh of relief as I’m finally heading in the right direction. But my sigh of relief came too soon as this slow train makes stops every 15 minutes. Sometimes the driver stops just to go for a smoke; how delightful for him. Random people would also come on the train with huge carts selling food that smells like…you can just imagine. The carts hit you if you’re in the aisle and they never. stop. coming. No matter how many times you have nodded your head no, you’re not hungry.
On my ride I had many characters come and go in the seats next to me. A lady who was barefoot putting her feet on my bench. A crying child. A man whose butt sweat left a little puddle when he got up. Might I add that the train was going so slow that not enough wind was being generated to cool anyone off. To sum it up it was the most uncomfortable, sweaty, and smelly experience of my life.
I FINALLY arrived a full 15 hours later than my original train was supposed to arrive. I paid for 2 tickets, had a numb bum, and wasted a day. When I arrived it was 1am and there were no tuk tuks outside the station to take me to my hostel. After wandering a bit I found one but he was charging way too much since I was the only one in it. After my pathetic attempt to bargain, I paid his price. In the end I needed him more than he needed me. So I overpaid and eventually arrived at my hostel. The staff showed me to my room and I immediately hopped in the shower.
It was a 4 bed dorm and 3 of the beds had stuff on them, but no people. When I got out of the shower the room was suddenly filled with 3 British boys doing some…illegal things. They asked me if I was a cop to which I answered…no? We then proceeded to play cards and show each other magic tricks till 6am. They became my new friends and I traveled with them for a few days after that. We even went to the elephant sanctuary together, which was a lovely time.
Traveling is full of annoying lows and incredible highs. Just hang on to the highs and get through the lows because I can guarantee there is another high coming. No pun intended.